Friday, May 15, 2009

Savoring Writing Good Enough to Eat

'Flavor, in Italian dishes, builds up from the bottom. It is not a cover, it is a base. In a pasta sauce, a risotto, a soup, a fricassee, a stew, or a dish of vegetables, a foundation of flavor supports, lifts, points up the principal ingredients. To grasp this architectural principle central to the structure of much Italian cooking, and to become familiar with the three key techniques that enable you to apply it, is to take a long step toward mastering Italian taste. The techniques are known as battuto, soffritto and insaporire.'
--from Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, by Marcella Hazan. We admit to never having heard of her or her work until reading
this recent profile of Marcella and her husband.

7 Comments:

At 11:39 AM, Blogger LIVE TO EAT said...

John,

Thanks for writing this post.

Marcella is correct, it is important for people to understand that there is more to Italian cooking than a bottled tomato sauce.

You have done an Italian guy proud - thanks!

Michael Franco

 
At 11:56 AM, Blogger John Ettorre said...

Michael, from one Great Lakes dago scribbler to another, I'm so glad you've stopped by to say hello. I'm looking forward to dipping into your writing this weekend, and hope other readers will also.

 
At 11:56 AM, Blogger John Ettorre said...

Michael, from one Great Lakes dago scribbler to another, I'm so glad you've stopped by to say hello. I'm looking forward to dipping into your writing this weekend, and hope other readers will also.

 
At 4:26 PM, Blogger Art Durkee said...

Marcella is so central to my family's cooking that I went out last Xmas and found a new copy of her book for myself. My in-laws are partly Italian, and so Marcella is sort of the Bible. My brother-in-law and his Mom have been through two or three copies, all stained with various bits of food on many pages, during decades of food prep. My sister had been mailing me so many Marcella recipes over the past few years, when I moved back here to take care of Dad, and I've made most of them. Finally I just found and bought my own copy of Marcella's classic book. It really is the best Italian cookbook available in English.

If you only ever have two cookbooks in your home, make it Marcella's and The Joy of Cooking. (Of course I have several more, most of which are on specific cuisines or materials, but I use those two books the most.)

 
At 9:43 PM, Blogger John Ettorre said...

That NYT piece on her and comments like yours have convinced me that being ignorant of her and her writing represented a pretty big hole in my knowledge of Italian food, one of my favorite subjects. But then, I've always been much more focused on the consumption than the provision, the eating than the cooking. That does seem a tad short-sighted now.

 
At 10:15 PM, Blogger Art Durkee said...

No problem with being focused on the consumption. I like to do that, too, after I've cooked the food to be consumed. :)

 
At 2:52 PM, Blogger John Ettorre said...

I was born to eat, as others were born to cook.

 

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